By: Pär Ardin
a.k.a SpeedFreek (@speedfreek on twitter)


I enjoy the modelling part of this hobby a lot more than painting, and sometimes even more than playing as well. Most of my modelling projects for any game the last fifteen years or so have had extensive conversions done to some or all of their models. With Guild Ball models being available in resin, this opens up a lot of possibilities for conversions and re-positioning of the models.

One model I have received a lot of praise for is my converted Tenderiser, so I decided to make another one, to try making a tutorial of how I made it.


Here is a try to help others who want to make a similar Tenderiser, a step by step with text and pictures for you to try and follow.

An important first step (which I often skip, to regret it later) is to clean all parts of mold lines/flash and release agent from the molding. (Yes I forgot some mold lines here as well) Wash the model with dish soap and scrape/cut/file away all visible mold lines.T2

This conversion is made using almost exclusively an industrial razor blade and a scalpel. I also use a drill and steel rod of 0.7mm and a bit of greenstuff from varying manufacturers plus superglue. And a lot of hot water.

I start by carefully removing the models outstretched right leg. I do cuts from multiple angles, to make sure the “exit wounds” are controlled, as I don’t care about the middle part of the cut at all.


To straighten the leg, I make controlled cuts halfway through the leg in the places I want to bend it. I then pour up a cup of newly boiled water and toss the part in and it goes soft in less than half a minute. I pick it up with some sort of tool (a fork) and quickly bend it as I want it and then hold it under running cold water for a couple of seconds.


I do the same procedure with the second leg and the head. Cut it half way through from the back of the bend, to leave the details in the front. Heat it up and re-position and then cool it down. The good thing is you can do this multiple times with the same detail until you are happy with it.


When reshaping the arms, I start of by pinning the handle for the weapon, to prevent it from bending. Then multiple cuts where I want to bend the model, careful to ruin as little detail as possible.


When reshaping with water, I managed to break the left arm of, but that also made it easier to position it correctly. As seen in the picture, you can carefully pour hot water on just a part of the piece you are reshaping to just partially heat it up.


As neither arms nor legs will “fit” on the butchered torso, you will have to pin them in place and probably remove some excess material from the body as well.
Carefully reheating some parts might be needed too. I had to reheat the feet a couple of times to make them stand straight on the ground and look balanced with the rest of the pose.


Here it’s basically trial and error, but here is how he ended up before greenstuff.


Some basic greenstuff just to hold the model together and reinforce the joints, and then you’ll have to wait until the next day for it to cure.
A large apron covers up all the anatomical wrongdoings done to his midsection.


Then comes the boring part (for me) which is to carefully add details and wait for them to cure before moving on to the next part.


I highly recommend cheating and adding bits to cover up your poor greenstuff work.
Here I had a spare set of knives (from Meathook?)


After a couple of short evenings of work, you will be ready to spray your model, so see if you need to fix some joints better. If so, I usually just paint them over with white glue. So here he is, in all his upright standing glory. Tenderiser:


Hopefully, this post has inspired at least some of it’s readers to try something similar, with Tenderiser or some other model.
Please show of your results to inspire others. And remember, stealing is the highest form of praise.

So go ahead:
Steal and Improve!